The suit has got to be the devil, because the details matter so much more than ever. Get them right and we promise you’re on your way to Suitperstardom – be it an interview, a bro’s wedding or a ministerial speech.
Blazer Fit: A suit to a woman is what lingerie is to a man – provided that the suit is fitted AF. If you must buy off the rack, here’s the bad news: there’s approximately 97.5% chance you won’t get that striking fit.
Good news? You may get close to it after reading this guide and carrying out the following three checks.
a) Open your mouth and query the store assistant. Some fashion retailers stock a uniform fit, others have your usual range of regulars, slims and skinnies. Pick according to your body type. There are no Smalls and Mediums here, only numbered sizing a la European charts. Typically, it goes from 36 to high 40’s. If there’s room to downsize, downsize. Up to a certain point, of course.
c) The jacket should feel snug, not restrictive. Try buttoning the first button. Put a fist under the jacket and over your chest – yes, like you’re about to say the pledge. Button threatening to pop? You could be past the snug zone, bro.
The Lapel Label: Suit details will get confusing. Especially for first-timers. Those front two flabs of folded fabric that sandwich where the tie is supposed to be? That’s the lapel. Remember it.
Next, note the width. We like our lapels slim, so we can pair it with slim ties. Don’t ask us why, it’s just sleeker that way.
Pants Break: The break is the crease or mini fold at the hem of your pants when it falls over the top of your shoe. Aim for no break.
Accessorising: This is the part where you put the finer and final touches on your suit, such as the pocket square. Details, guys.
Sleeves: They should stop just short of your wrist bone. You need to show off about 1.5cm of shirt cuff, a pair of expensive cufflinks and an even more expensive timepiece.
Pants Fit: The circumference of your legs narrows from the thighs down to the ankles. It only makes sense for the suit pants to have a nicely tapered fit. We’re also huge advocates for the beltless look, which means the pants have to be sitting just right on your waist. Leave no margin of error for this one, and by error we mean looseness.
Button: The magic number is two. Two buttons.
Editor’s note: When in doubt, get it tailored. Seriously. Have a guy for that.